Trattorias within Reach of your Berth in Genoa

For those who berth in Liguria or frequent the eastern coast, it is well known that one of the unmissable events is the Camogli Fish Festival held every second Sunday in May and conceived by lawyer Filippo De Gregori in 1952. On this occasion, approximately 30,000 portions of fried fish are cooked in an enormous steel pan (over 4 meters in diameter with a 6-meter handle) in Piazza Colombo. Already from the evening before, the feast of the patron saint of fishermen, Saint Fortunato, is celebrated, where eight volunteers carry the four-quintal statue of the saint on their shoulders, concluding with the traditional bonfires at 11 PM. Tradition dictates that the pyres are built by the two districts of Camogli, Porto and Pinetto, using wood from old boats, discarded furniture, and various artifacts now fallen into disuse. All this is hosted in the eighteenth-century palace of the Raibetta trattoria.

If we wanted to venture from our berth in pursuit of Genoese gastronomy, at this point we cannot miss the numerous, but sometimes elusive, city trattorias. Remembering that traditionally the Genoese are very careful with expenses, consequently the trattorias reflect and respect this nature; you can eat really well with a cost that rarely exceeds 30 euros. However, we said that they are not easy to find, as you cannot make reservations and often there is no sign indicating them from the outside!

Our culinary research starts as always from Marina Porto Antico, the reference point for discovering Genoa from your berth with that possibility of tasting that rare flavor that helps you sleep peacefully in your boat before visiting a city. The pleasure therefore of having your floating hotel in a berth in the heart of the destination to discover.

A ten-minute walk from the docks, you enter Vico Caprettari, one of the notorious alleyways of the center. Here you should note the Antica Barberia Giacalone, a shop from 1882 in Liberty style, with colored mirrors and Art Deco finishes, where everything has remained unchanged. At number 10R, 30 meters away, you reach Trattoria della Raibetta, a pillar for the local residents and a certainty for visitors. Located inside an 18th-century palace with exposed brick and rustic furnishings, you can fully savor typical cuisine. The fish fry is recommended, and the daily specials, for those who trust, are truly satisfying.

In an environment where you breathe true tradition and local cuisine, we encounter the trattoria Sà Pesta, carved out inside an ancient salt warehouse, famous for farinata and vegetable pies, but on the menu you will find the essential trofie al pesto, stuffed anchovies, chickpea zemino. In line with a bygone era are also its hours, closed on Sundays and from Monday to Wednesday you can only eat lunch.

For true explorers at Vico Vegetti 3R, a stone’s throw from Piazza San Bernardo, eating at trattoria Mangiabuono is a real challenge for tourists, it has no sign and, like other trattorias, you cannot make reservations. You will be rewarded with excellent quality cuisine. The place is small and weather permitting you will also find some tables outside. The menu is handwritten in line with Ligurian tradition.

A stone’s throw from the berths of Marina Porto Antico, another historic establishment is the Antica Friggitoria Carega on Via Sottoripa. You will find the counter in full view and if you do not want to order takeaway you will most likely eat in the street, as seats are literally limited. The menu is absolutely irresistible: mixed fried fish, battered cod, cuculli and frisceu, pizzas and farinata, fish stew. A place that is in the hearts of the Genoese, as also testified by the photo depicting Fabrizio De André with his son Cristiano, in front of the counter, preserved inside the establishment. The offer is more than reasonable: with 10 euros you will leave ecstatic!

Finally, if you want to experience renewed Ligurian cuisine, Trattoria dell’Acciughetta is definitely for you. You cannot know what awaits you on the menu, the dishes change every day with ingredients bought fresh from the markets. The anchovies are “sante” or paired, fried, marinated and in a thousand other ways all to be savored. Among the first courses, the Presidio Slow Food ravioli with Genoese tocco and the whole wheat trofie “all’Acciughetta”. Unlike the other destinations, the atmosphere here is more… contemporary. Past and present have found an excellent balance and the young management makes the stay very pleasant.