From Camogli to Punta Chiappa, the Stella Maris and the Beauties of the Ligurian Coast

Not everyone knows, but the Ligurian Sea can shine like the brightest constellation. This happens every year, during the first Sunday of August, on the occasion of the Stella Maris. A sea procession from Camogli to Punta Chiappa with boats equipped with lanterns, illuminating the sea for the joy of spectators who can enjoy the show from the coast.

The evocative event takes place in one of the most fascinating areas of northern Italy and boasts a centuries-old history. The festival of Stella Maris was indeed born in the 1400s, and for almost a century it has reached its current form.

The procession opens in the morning and is led by “Ü Dragun”, the symbol of Camogli. Forty-eight years after its launch, the xebec that has repeatedly participated in the Venice Historical Regatta majestically leads the parade of festively decorated boats. Some free boats are available for tourists and those without their own floating means, so as not to exclude anyone from the charm of the festival.

The arrival at Punta Chiappa is followed by a mass celebrated inside the Stella di Mare Altar, concluding the first part of the event.

The most spectacular moment comes in the evening, when shipowners fill the boats with lanterns. Bathers entrust the sea with thousands of lit candles, which shine on the Ligurian Sea with a light that rivals the constellations in the sky. The Star of the Sea, indeed.

However, the procession is not the only opportunity to discover the beauties of Liguria. The territory of Camogli and its surroundings indeed presents historical monuments and breathtaking landscapes, the result of the fusion between the many changes brought by man and the unchanging wonder of Ligurian nature.

The Golfo Paradiso is dominated by the imposing Castello della Dragonara, a defensive structure dating back to the 12th century. The characteristic “Saracen towers” accompany the fortress, certifying its role as a lookout post against pirate raids. After an initial period of purely military use, the castle was used as an administrative center, then became a prison, and finally an aquarium.

Not far away is the promontory on which stands the majestic Castello Brown, belonging to the municipality of Portofino. The settlement and the first remains are ancient, dating back to the late Roman period. The castle was instead built in the 10th century, then underwent continuous changes: first Milanese, then French, and finally Savoyard, when the formation of the Kingdom of Italy made it strategically useless. Its restoration is due to the intervention of the English consul from whom it takes its name, who bought it in the 19th century, restoring it to its former glory.

The Battery of Punta Chiappa belongs to a completely different historical context, built in anticipation of World War II. The cannons guarding the structure are no longer visitable, but the complex has aesthetic and historical value for its use during the fascist era.

Not far from Punta Chiappa, the promontory of Isuela is an unmissable place for the most experienced divers, known for the variety of fish in its depths.

For fishermen, however, the tuna fishery of Camogli is more interesting, located no more than 400 meters from the coast. Along with that of Mazzara del Vallo, it is the only one to use completely natural nets, thus suitable for not altering the surrounding marine ecosystem.

However, 2017 was not a fortunate year for the structure, which saw the season completely ruined by the destruction of the nets due to a boat’s error.

Boaters can choose to visit the trails winding through the coastal towns using the buoy park at Punta Chiappa, where a half-day mooring costs just €10. An opportunity to discover the natural territory of Liguria and try the local cuisine in the many restaurants in the area.

A very popular route among tourists leads from Porto Pidocchio to the Church of San Rocco, with a path winding between typical villas and strategic points to observe the landscape.

A must-stop for those choosing this option is the Church of San Nicolò di Capodimonte, located roughly halfway through the itinerary. Of medieval construction, it rediscovered its beauty following a restoration funded by the Marina Porto Antico and has reopened to the public. The building remains one of the most successful examples of sacred architecture in the Ligurian territory.

Extending the walk after the Church of San Rocco requires additional effort, but offers the priceless view of the Gulf of Genoa from the position atop Mount Portofino.

For even more determined walkers, the itinerary connecting Camogli with the Bay of San Fruttuoso, located about two hours on foot, is an option. The latter is actually also accessible via a boat service connected with the main cities in the area, including Genoa, Portofino, and indeed Camogli.

However the destination is reached, the beach and clear sea are not the only attractions of the place, known especially for the splendid abbey at Capodimonte. Built around the year 1000, it is now directly managed by the FAI and represents one of the hidden treasures of Liguria.

The Stella Maris on August 6 will therefore be a special occasion to discover the places and traditions of the Ligurian coast. A procession of boats led by a dragon, the sea illuminated as day with medieval constructions in the background: all reasons not to miss a unique event, also for the setting in which it is placed.

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