Since the dawn of navigation, the first rule adopted to ensure the safety of sailors is very simple: avoid falling overboard at all costs, and this is where lifelines come into play. Indeed, nowadays we can rely on various devices that help prevent falling overboard, starting with safety lines with harnesses designed for sailing in rough seas or, in general, for solo sailing. But since it’s not always possible to stay tethered, there are also devices aimed at making a potential “man overboard” situation less dangerous: think of ring buoys with lines, but also, of course, life jackets, preferably with automatic inflation (so they can be worn at all times without being cumbersome or restricting movement). However, if there’s one thing that always provides a barrier between oneself and the sea, it’s the lifeline system of guardrails. A good sailor knows very well how crucial it is to always have a handhold within reach, to quickly regain balance while moving around the boat, especially when the boat heels or jolts unexpectedly, perhaps due to a rogue wave created by a passing ferry. But beware: neither lifelines nor guardrails are eternal. Many boaters here, at their berth in our marina in Genoa, remember every year to inspect every inch of the guardrail system to identify any weak points. And that’s exactly what we’ll discuss today: let’s see how to approach the maintenance of lifelines, and when and how to carry out any necessary replacements.

Lifelines, guardrails, stanchions: a bit of terminology

Not everyone is a seasoned sailor, and not everyone refers to parts of the boat with the same words. Here in our marina in Genoa, we often notice this: nautical terminology always hides some little pitfalls, some possibilities for misunderstanding or misinterpretation. So it’s worth quickly reviewing some terms. The term guardrail refers to the set of “barriers” installed along the boat to prevent falling overboard. On larger boats, guardrails usually reach 70 centimeters, while on smaller hulls, one must settle for guardrails around 50 centimeters: hence, one tends to move along the boat with an even lower center of gravity. The stanchion is the vertical element that provides structure to the guardrail, while the lifelines are the cables running between stanchions, providing grip and support for sailors. Now we can move on to the maintenance of lifelines!

Routine maintenance of lifelines: how to make them last longer

How to prolong the life of lifelines, keeping them functional and safe over time? First of all, it’s good to know the threats that can damage these cables, typically made of coated steel wire. The sheath can crack due to the sun, while the metal can rust due to humidity. What can be done is to occasionally clean the lifelines and the guardrail system with fresh water, to at least remove the salt. It would also be good to keep the lifelines taut but not excessively, so as not to constantly stress them; to avoid overloading them, it can be a good practice to attach fenders not to the lifeline, but to the stanchion (preferably at the bottom, so as not to strain this vertical element either).

And then there’s the need for regular observation, looking for points where the sheath is failing, or oxidations, cable strands protruding (dangerous for hands and possibly even sails), loosenings, broken bushings, and so on. When problems of this type are identified, it’s good to intervene with localized repairs or with the total replacement of the lifelines.

Replacing lifelines: which cables to choose

And if one decides to replace the lifelines, what type of cable should be chosen? The perfect solution does not exist. The classic coated steel cable ensures excellent comfort and is not dangerous for rubbing against hands, sails, or clothes. But the coating dries, hardens, and cracks over time. There’s also the option of uncoated steel cable, which, however, is not particularly pleasant to the touch, even though it proudly displays its shiny finish. In both cases, it must be said, those who want to replace the lifelines themselves, using steel cables (with or without sheath), will face a significant task, having to manage all the spliced or crimped fittings. A third option is Dyneema fiber lifelines, a more modern solution that offers several advantages: they are comfortable to the touch, have even greater load resistance than steel, and are easier to splice. However, they are not at all friendly to sunlight: hence, one will find themselves replacing the lifelines more frequently.

Replacing lifelines, in practice

Without a doubt, the most convenient option would be to entrust the replacement of the lifelines to professionals, and therefore to riggers who can perfectly duplicate the old lifelines, with the exact same measurements (and possibly in another material).

It’s also possible to take the DIY route, which is not easy: in fact, it’s necessary, or even mandatory, to have a tool capable of crimping cables, namely a professional manual crimping tool for crimping and splicing steel cables. This can cost several hundred euros. Let’s assume we buy it or borrow it: at that point, the biggest challenge will be to perfectly replicate the original measurements, and then reuse the turnbuckles already present on the boat, to reduce costs. Provided they are in good condition! In short, before taking the DIY route, it’s good to ensure you have the tools, time available, and patience.